Breitling Unveils Refined Versions of Chronomat Collection

Swiss watchmaker Breitling has introduced updated versions of its Chronomat collection, featuring refinements to the case, bracelet, and movement designs while retaining signature elements such as the rider tabs and Rouleaux bracelet.

Originally developed in 1983 in partnership with Italy’s aerobatic team, the Frecce Tricolori, the Chronomat was designed as a mechanical chronograph intended for aviation use during a period when quartz watches dominated the market. The watch officially launched in 1984 during Breitling’s centennial year.

The latest Chronomat models include a fully integrated case and bracelet design, replacing the previous semi-integrated structure. The Rouleaux bracelet on steel and two-tone models also features a micro-adjustment system that allows the wearer to extend the bracelet by one link on each side of the concealed butterfly clasp.

The updated Chronomat lineup includes three main models: the Chronomat B01 42, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40, and the Chronomat Automatic 36.

The Chronomat B01 42 features a reduced case thickness of 13.77 mm, down from 15.1 mm, and is powered by Breitling’s COSC-certified Manufacture Caliber 01 with a 70-hour power reserve. The company said the removal of the 1/100 scale from the rehaut was intended to improve legibility and simplicity, while the crown guard was downsized to make winding and setting more comfortable.

The Chronomat Automatic B31 40, on the other hand, is powered by Breitling’s COSC-certified Manufacture Caliber B31, unveiled last year. The movement has a 78-hour power reserve and is housed in a 10.99 mm thick case. Breitling said the model marks the first time-and-date Chronomat offered in a 40 mm case.

Meanwhile, the Chronomat Automatic 36 is housed in a 36 mm case and powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 10, a Sellita-based automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The case thickness was reduced from 10.01 mm to 9.68 mm. Select versions feature mother-of-pearl dials and gem-set bezels.

The watches are available in dial colors including white, green, blue, anthracite, ice blue, and brown, with case and metal bracelet options in stainless steel, two-tone, and gold finishes. The ice-blue models feature classic platinum bezels.

Chronomat gained popularity internationally during the 1990s, appearing in television shows including “Friends” and “Seinfeld”, and being worn by public figures such as celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay and actor Jean-Paul Belmondo, earning the title “the watch for the ’90s” by Vogue.

The company also launched a campaign for the updated collection featuring ambassadors Austin Butler, Giannis Antetokounmpo, and Erling Haaland.

In addition, Breitling announced the release of “Chronomat Story”, a book by journalist Gerard Tubb that examines the history and development of the Chronomat collection.